ITALY hasn't had a great deal to celebrate in recent years, but
what there is, the nation can rely upon Stefano Gabbana and
Domenico Dolce to make the very most of. This past weekend the
designer pair gathered around 200 press and clients in a cove
guarded by the towering Faraglioni rocks of Capri to watch their
latest Alta Moda show, a love letter to their home country.
As the sun slowly sank below the high cliffs, a flotilla of
small boats ferried guests on to a beach to make their away along a
rocky path to the the small bay next door, where bougainvillea
climbed up candelabra lighting, and rows of deckchairs mixed with
satin ottomans in a makeshift show space. The setting was a Fellini
film come to life as the audience, requested to dress in
La Dolce Vita style, clambered across the rocks in
ballgowns and embellished corsets, floral opera coats and lace
sheaths. Unusually inclement weather had made the logistics of the
whole event a battle against the elements, but by the evening Dolce
& Gabbana had triumphed, the seas had begun to calm and the
skies had cleared.
Opening the show were a series of theatrical ballgowns, the hand
painted stripes of their enormous skirts flowing from tight velvet
bodices. The models were lifted in their extravagant finery from
small boats, making their stately process across through the
audience like Italian principesses stranded on Prospero's enchanted
isle.
Their journey over, our gaze was directed stage left as the
first look appeared from a flight of wooden stairs, her hooded fur
cape and fur boots accessorising the famous bra tops and
high-waisted pants of the brand, worked this time in crystal. As
the show continued, Dolce and Gabbana left us in no doubt as to
where they found their inspiration as they plundered the
iconography of the island as well as revisiting many of their
previous favourite Italian motifs.
The yellows and blues of the local majolica ceramics featured on
ballgowns and bodices, along with luscious citrus fruits, the
curved handles of ancient amphorae and the regatta stripes of the
sea. The caves and cliffs and coastline where we sat were woven in
silk and picked out in sequins, while fur was introduced
throughout, in yeti-style boots and hoods but also shaved and dyed
into tunic tops and evening dresses. It was a reminder that
although the show was on the holiday isle of Capri in high summer
the clothes will be ordered for the coming autumn.
The island's flat jewelled sandals, made famous in paparazzi
snaps of Jackie Onassis, accompanied the extravagant gowns or were
exchanged for cute slingback velvet slippers, while the usual
centre-parted hair of the models was decorated with the mimosa,
bougainvillea and plumbago that covers the local houses.
After the show we climbed the stairs to La Fontelina restaurant
on the beach for a feast and there the party started. Never a
couple to shun theatricality, Stefano and Domenico waited till dark
to present their bride, as a glorious illuminated figurehead
sailing past on the dark sea below and kicking off an incredible
firework display over the Mediterranean that never seemed to end.
Twenty-four hours later the party was still going strong at one of
Capri's oldest nightclubs. Dressed in a chilli-pepper-printed shirt
and shorts, Domenico took to the stage to sing, with Eva Herzigova
on tambourine, while Stefano shared out his treasured collection of
wigs amongst the men in the audience, egged on by Ulyana Sergeenko,
Anna Dello Russo, Coco, Bianca and Georgina Brandolini and Giovanna
Battaglia.
