In
order to understand the constantly changing trends in cosmetics, it is
interesting to take a look at the evolution of makeup. Women and men
have been wearing cosmetics for centuries, although the styles have
certainly undergone some dramatic changes over time. Let's take a look
at how cosmetics evolved.
The earliest historical record of makeup comes from the 1st Dynasty
of Egypt (c.3100-2907 BC). Tombs from this era have revealed unguent
jars, which in later periods were scented. Unguent was a substance
extensively used by men and women to keep their skin hydrated and supple
and to avoid wrinkles from the dry heat. The women of Egypt also
decorated their eyes by applying dark green color to the under lid and
blackening the lashes and the upper lid with kohl, which was made from
antimony (a metallic element) or soot. It is believed that the Jews
adopted the use of makeup from the Egyptians, since references to the
painting of faces appear in the New Testament section of the Bible.
Roman philosopher Plautus (254-184 BC) wrote, "A woman without paint
is like food without salt." Of course, Plautus was a dramatist, which
would explain his preference for the look of a "painted woman" at that
time.
Romans widely used cosmetics by the middle of the 1st century AD.
Kohl was used for darkening eyelashes and eyelids, chalk was used for
whitening the complexion, and rouge was worn on the cheek. Depilatories
were utilized at that time and pumice was used for cleaning the teeth.
Women wore white lead and chalk on their faces in Greco-Roman
society. Persian women used henna dyes to stain their hair and faces
with the belief that these dyes enabled them to summon the majesty of
the earth.
During the European middle ages, pale skin was a sign of wealth.
Sixth century women sought drastic measures to achieve that look by
bleeding themselves, although, in contrast, Spanish prostitutes wore
pink makeup. Thirteenth century affluent women donned pink lipstick as
proof they could afford synthetic makeup.
During the Italian Renaissance, lead pain was used to lighten the
face, which was very damaging to the wearer. Aqua Toffana was a popular
face powder named for its creator, Signora Toffana. Made from arsenic,
Signora Toffana instructed her rich clientele to apply the makeup only
when their husbands were around. It's interesting to note that Tofana
was executed some six hundred dead husbands later.
Cosmetics were seen as a health threat in Elizabethan England,
although women wore egg whites over their faces for a glazed look.
During the reign of Charles II, heavy makeup began to surface as a
means to contradict the pallor from being inside due to illness
epidemics.
During the French Restoration in the 18th century, red rouge and
lipstick were used to give the impression of a healthy, fun-loving
spirit.
Eventually, people in other countries became repulsed by excessive
makeup and claimed the "painted" French had something to hide.
During the Regency era, the most important item was rouge, which was
used by most everyone. At that time, eyebrows were blackened and hair
was dyed. To prevent a low hairline, a forehead bandage dipped in
vinegar in which cats dung had been steeped was worn. Most of the
country dwellers' makeup recipes made use of herbs, flowers, fat,
brandy, vegetables, spring water and, of course, crushed strawberries.
During this era, white skin signified a life of leisure while skin
exposed to the sun indicated a life of outdoor labor. In order to
maintain a pale complexion, women wore bonnets, carried parasols, and
covered all visible parts of their bodies with whiteners and blemish
removers. Unfortunately, more than a few of these remedies were lethal.
The most dangerous beauty aids during this time were white lead and
mercury. They not only eventually ruined the skin but also caused
hair loss, stomach problems, the shakes, and could even cause death.
Although these dangers became known through the death of courtesan Kitty
Fisher, the majority of women continued to use these deadly whiteners.
During the 1800's, women would use belladonna to make their eyes
appear more luminous, even though they were aware it was poisonous.
Many cosmetics were made by local pharmacists, known as apothecaries in
England, and common ingredients included mercury and nitric acid. Hair
dye was made from coal tar, which is now illegal in America.
It might interest you to know that men wore makeup until the 1850's.
George IV spent a fortune on cold cream, powders, pastes, and scents.
However, not all men wore makeup, as many looked upon a man with rouged
cheeks as a dandy.
Here are some beauty-tip recipes utilized during the late 1800's:
*For freckle removal: bruise and squeeze the juice out of
chick-weed, add three times its quantity of soft water, then bathe the
skin for five to ten minutes morning and evening.
*As a wash for the complexion: one teaspoon of flour of sulphur and a
wine glassful of lime water, well shaken and mixed with half a
wine-glass of glycerine and a wine-glass of rose-water. Rub on the face
every night before going to bed.
*To keep hair from turning gray: four ounces of hulls of butternuts
were infused with a quart of water, to which half an ounce of copperas
was added. This was to be applied with a soft brush every two to three
days.
*For wrinkle removal: melt one ounce of white wax, add two ounces of
juice of lily-bulbs, two ounces of honey, two drams of rose-water, and a
drop or two of ottar of roses and use twice a day.
Victorians abhorred makeup and associated its use with prostitutes
and actresses (many considered them one and the same). Any visible hint
of tampering with one's natural color would be looked upon with
disdain. At that time, a respectable woman would use home-prepared face
masks, most of which were based on foods such as oatmeal, honey, and
egg yolk. For cleansing, rosewater or scented vinegars were used. As a
beauty regimen, a woman would pluck her eyebrows, massage castor oil
into her eyelashes, use rice powder to dust her nose, and buff her nails
to a shine. Lipstick was not used, but clear pomade would be applied
to add sheen. However some of these products contained a dye to
discretely enhance natural lip color. For a healthy look, red beet
juice would be rubbed into the cheeks, or the cheeks would be pinched
(out of sight, of course). For bright eyes, a drop of lemon juice in
each eye would do the trick. When makeup began to resurface, full
makeup was still seen as sinful, although natural tones were accepted to
give a healthy, pink-cheek look.
The real evolution actually began during the 1910's. By then, women
made their own form of mascara by adding hot beads of wax to the tips
of their eyelashes. Some women would use petroleum jelly for this
purpose. The first mascara formulated was named after Mabel, the sister
of its creator, T. L. Williams, who utilized this method. This mascara
is known today as Maybelline. In 1914, Max Factor introduced his
pancake makeup. Vogue featured Turkish women using henna to outline
their eyes, and the movie industry immediately took interest. This
technique made the eyes look larger, and the word "vamp" became
associated with these women, vamp being short for vampire.
During this decade, the first pressed powders were introduced which
included a mirror and puff for touchups. Pressed powder blush followed
soon after. The lipstick metal case, invented by Maurice Levy, became
popular. Also, during this time, lipstick was tattooed onto the lips by
George Burchett, who was also known as the "Beauty Doctor". This
method did not always work, and you can imagine the terrible
consequences.
The earliest version of an acid peel was utilized at this time,
which was a combination of acid and electric currents applied to the
skin. Also, a needle would be used to insert paraffin to the eye area
and cheeks, although this, too, was not very successful. Nivea cream
made its appearance in Germany, and companies, in order to compete,
began creating creams consisting of Vaseline mixed with fragrance.
To help with sagging jowls and double-chins, women could purchase
for wear a weird-looking contraption with chin straps, which obviously
did not work.
However, the Victorian look remained in fashion until mass makeup
marketing came about during the 1920's. The newly emancipated woman of
America began to display her independence by free use of red lipstick,
which was often scented with cherry. By the late '20's, visible makeup
was considered a must by rural women but was still frowned upon by the
country girls. During this decade, lip gloss was introduced by Max
Factor. New shades of red lipstick were developed, although were
soap-based and very drying. The first eyelash curler came on the scene,
called Kurlash. Even though it was expensive and difficult to use,
this did not detract from its popularity. Mascara in cake and cream
form was extremely vogue.
From the 1930's through the 1950's, various movie stars proved to be
the models for current trends in makeup. Remember Audrey Hepburn's
deeply outlined cat eyes? With the '60's and the hippies came a more
liberated makeup look, from white lips and Egyptian-lined eyes to
painted images on faces. Heavily lined eyes continued through the '70's
and '80's with a wide range of eye shadow colors. Today's trend seems
to have reverted to the more natural look with a blending of styles from
the past.
In today's world, a woman has literally hundreds of cosmetics to
choose from, with a wide variety of colors and uses. For a younger
look, the options available are as simple as skin hydrators and
rejuvenators, advancing to chemical skin peels, the now-popular Botox,
collagen injections, and ending with the more-drastic surgical facelift.
It is important to reflect on one's inner beauty as the real beauty
of a woman. Outer beauty will not remain forever, no matter what
drastic measures are taken. We have all heard the saying, "The eyes are
the windows to the soul". Look into your own orbits, take stock of
the woman inside, and be happy with who you are. This will reflect on
your outlook on life, which will send a message to others, and will be
returned to you through their reactions to the beautiful you.
